Bespoke｜全手工訂製

✂︎ 傳承的藝術作品，從無到有的全手工訂製，作品80%以上手工縫製，80％以上皆天然材質。

 訂製流程

細節設計

到府量身

確定作品輪廓及細節需求，選擇布料及鈕釦，進行各部位量身、影像紀錄站姿。

乍樣試衣

試穿暫時粗線固定的乍線樣衣，進行比例、細部及版型調整，此階段的試衣調版有可能超過2次以上，確定改版後，將整件乍樣重新壓版及裁剪，等待進入製作階段。

成品試衣

進行最後的調整以確保完美合身。

 

材質- 表布內裡

  • 表布布料普遍皆以羊毛、蠶絲、亞麻、棉等天然材質或互相混紡，布料來至歷史悠久的歐洲或英國布料商，Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Scabal, Marzoni, Dormeuil, READ等。
  • 內裡使用Bemberg德國品牌日本 Asahi Kasei 製造- Cupro棉絨再生纖維達到吸濕透氣，可選擇半裡布或是全裡布。

 

設計- 輪廓細節

  • 依照膚色、體型和需求確定作品輪廓及細節。
  • 西裝領、劍領、絲瓜領及混領等。
  • 雙唇口袋、單唇口袋、酒杯貼袋、機能性袋蓋等，內裡可開口紅袋、筆袋、名片袋等。
  • 正常肩（THE STRUCTURED）、休閒肩（THE UNSTRUCTURED）、瀑布袖（THE NEAPOLITAN SHOULDER）。
  • 米蘭眼及釦眼數量。

 

骨架- 毛襯縫製

  • 由馬海毛和羊毛混紡而成的毛襯是西裝的骨架，支撐布料的同時依然能使布料保持原有的布性，需使用整燙技巧將毛襯塑形固定，再一針一線人字縫將毛襯和布料結合。

 

點綴- 天然鈕釦

  • 天然象牙、牛角、貝殼、果實、木質釦等，因為來自大自然，所以每一顆皆獨一無二，一件作品最好的點綴。

 

✂︎ Artworks that can be inherited, fully custom-made from scratch, with over 80% of the work done by hand, and over 80% composed of natural materials.

 THE CUSTOM SUIT-MAKING PROCESS

Design

At-Home Body Measurements

Determine the silhouette and detailed requirements of the work, select fabric and buttons, conduct body measurements, take images of standing posture.

Basting Fitting

Wear temporarily basted garment to adjust the pattern drafting, this fitting stage may require adjustments more than 2 times, confirm alterations, then recut entire sample for production phase.

Final Fitting

Final adjustments are made to ensure a perfect fit. 

 

Outer fabric and lining

  • Outer fabric commonly use natural materials such as wool, silk, linen, and cotton or blends from reputable European or British fabric merchants like Holland & Sherry, Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Scabal, Marzoni, Dormeuil, READ, etc.
  • Internal lining made with German brand Bemberg manufactured by Asahi Kasei in Japan - Cupro fiber achieves moisture absorption and breathability, offering the choice of half lining or full lining.

 

Design

  • Determine the silhouette and detailed requirements of the work based on skin tone, body shape, and needs. 
  • Notched lapel, peak lapel, shawl lapel, and mixed lapel etc.
  • Double jetted pocket, single jetted pocket, patch pocket, bellows pocket etc. Inner lining provides lipstick pocket, pen pocket, card pocket, and more。
  • Structured shoulder, Unstructured shoulder, Neapolitan shoulder. 
  • Quantity of Milanese buttonhole, eyelet buttonhole.

 

Canvas interlining

  • The canvas interlining, made of a blend of horsehair and wool, serves as the framework of a suit, supporting the fabric while maintaining its original characteristics. Use proper ironing techniques to mold and fix the canvas interlining by herringbone stitch it to the fabric with precision.

 

Button

  • Natural ivory, buffalo horn, shells, corozo, wooden buttons, etc., are all unique as they come from nature, making each piece the best embellishment.